#47 Late Winter Garden Care and Planting

This edition will address activities that should be completed sometime in, or by the end of, February.

The end of winter, in most years, comes by March 1st or a few days later.  We rarely have frosts as late as early April, but I would plan for the first week in March.  This means that you don’t plant frost tender vegetables or flowers before that time.  All the half hardy/cool season spring blooming annuals like Alyssum, Snapdragon, Calendula, Candytuft, Dianthus, Gaillardia, Larkspur, Lobelia, Mimulus, Nasturtium, ornamental Cabbage and Kale, Pansy, Phlox, Stock, Voila, Larkspur (seed only) can go in now.  Any flowering plants that are considered perennial (living year to year) can be planted at this time (excluding spring blooming bulbs).  Trees, shrubs (including roses), fruit trees/berries, summer and fall blooming bulbs, and vines will survive the hot summer much better if they are planted now or in the next month or so.  This gives them time to develop new roots and settle in before the heat arrives.  The following vegetables can be planted up to the end of February: Artichokes, Beet seeds, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Brussel Sprouts ( all transplants), Carrots, Chard, Collards, Kale, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Parsley, Radish, Shallots, Spinach, and Turnips.

If you haven’t already cleaned up the garden of frozen plant materials, do it now.  Cut back semi-tender shrubs and vines like Plumbago, Jasmine, Ginger, and the like to remove the damaged wood.  Cut back Salvias, Daylilies, perennial Phlox, Elephant Ears, Ferns, and other herbs and perennials to remove frozen parts, and to encourage branching.  In northern climates all but the hardiest plants are cut back to near the ground by freezing weather.  Here we must prune to remove that growth, or perennials and herbs will become woody and lax in form.  Prune roses, winter blooming shrubs, shade and fruit trees, and summer and fall blooming shrubs if they are overgrown.  You can mow groundcovers like Vinca, Asian Jasmine, and Liriope with the lawn mower or weed-eater to about 3 inches high.

Take a look at your compost pile, removing any material that has not yet composted.  Set it aside, turn the pile, and spread the finished material around the drip line of shrubs, roses, trees, and any newly planted items.  Use it liberally, mixed with native soil, to back fill in planting holes.  We are blessed with some of the best agricultural soil in Texas here in Smithville, but it can always be improved by the liberal addition of humus (compost).  Begin a new pile with the remaining unfinished compost, and then add leaves, the smaller cut material from pruning, vegetable matter from the kitchen, and later lawn clippings (unless you use a mulching lawnmower).  Turn it at intervals, and keep it well watered in between.

This tidying up and planting done in late winter will be the basis for new growth and bloom later in the season.  At the beginning of the next month, we’ll talk about fertilization of shrubs, roses, and lawn to insure a healthy garden through the spring, summer, and fall months.